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Penitente Canyon, Del Norte, Co.

Penitente Canyon is one of those rare remote places where you find a rich convergence of cultures over the short history of humans on this earth.  This area, born of a turbulent volcanic past forming the La Garita Caldera, has attracted mankind through the millennia.  Evidence of these visitors abound as one hikes or bikes the canyons.

Suzie making her way down the Penitente Canyon trail.

Ancestors of the local Indian tribes hunted and camped here, leaving pictograph evidence behind.

One of the Penitente Canyon pictographs

Later, Hispanic farmers and shepherds settled here claiming it as theirs and leaving their mark in rutted roads from ox carts, or carretas, travelling over the canyon passes. These ruts run deep, a testament to the countless trips travelling back and forth from villages with heavy loads.

Carretas ruts in the rock over a pass between the canyons
These ruts run deep!
Signatures carved in the rock near the ruts.

This is also where a Spanish religious sect settled in the 1880’s, Los Hermanos Penitentes,  who chose the solitude of their namesake canyon to practice their religion..  These brothers practiced self-flagellation and other penitential acts like crucifixion reenactments.  One remnant of their presence here is a painted image of Virgin of Guadalupe on a canyon wall apparently left by a religious pilgrim

The Virgin of Gaudalupe canyon wall painting
Zoomed in. It definitely has taken some pot shots in the past by bullets.

And now it is a mecca for rock climbers, mountain bikers, and hikers.  The steep and varied rock cliff faces offer technical climb challenges and the canyon valley itself offers great views for the biker or hiker.

Suzie making her way through a rock crack in the trail.

Nearby is the San Juan Catholic Spiritual Center and Rosary Walk.  The red roof capping the stark white St. John the Baptist Church juts out of the plains as you travel to the canyon.  We stopped for a visit because of how unusual it looked and Suzie was raised Catholic. On the grounds is also a rosary walk dedicated to Pope John Paul II.  A remnant of the original church wall has been preserved on the walk as well.  A place of solitude for those who seek it.

St. John the Baptist Church

Nearby is the Carnero Creek Cemetery (Cematario del Carnero) with very old Hispanic gravesite markers dated back to the turn of the 20th century.  I found a couple unique markers worth posting here.

The simple entrance to Cemetario del Carnero
Some of the oldest grave-site markers were simple wooden crosses, circa 1900.
The Espinosa family attempted to make a grave marker that resembled Mt. Holy Cross
Yes, his name translated from Spanish was “Perfectly Good”.

Penitente Canyon is definitely off the beaten path, but it is worth a visit for Coloradoans looking to get away from the same old tourist trails…and you might learn some interesting history along the way!

Panoramic view of Penitente Canyon

As usual leave your comments and feedback below.

2 replies on “Penitente Canyon, Del Norte, Co.”

It looks like someone or family members are leaving flowers on the gravestones. A bit sad, in a way.

I don’t know, at least they are not forgotten. Most of the flowers were fake and heavily sun bleached.

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