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South Pass City, Wyoming

South Pass City “downtown” as it looks today, as viewed from the Wolverine Mine.

It must have been a welcome oasis for travelers jostled and dirty from the long dry wagon ride across the Wyoming desert to finally get to South Pass City, Wyoming.  It was bustling mining town by 1868 located on the Oregon Trail Lander Cut-Off, those that came here sought respite, something to eat and drink, and perhaps even to stay to try their hand at finding gold too and striking it rich.

South Pass City as it was in the height of its boom in 1869. Note how many more buildings there was back then.

The site of the largest gold boom, and bust, in Wyoming was a happening place back then.  Several saloons, gaming parlors, and secret brothels fed the seedier needs of the town, but there were hotels, stores, butcher shops, blacksmiths, assayers, dance hall, banks and horse boarding barns as well. After all, back then with some 3000 people, it was Wyoming’s second largest town!

South Pass City as it was in 1916, many of the buildings now already gone, used to rebuild other buildings, burnt down, or moved, the city 50 years later is a shell of itself.

Only a mere few years later the regional Sweetwater Mines went bust, but the town managed to stay continually populated since then and now is magnificently restored to its once glorious past.  In fact, it is among the best and most complete “ghost towns” we have encountered in our travels, being the largest state historic site in Wyoming.

For a modest $5 fee you can walk the boardwalks and dirt streets of this picturesque city and view the lovingly restored furnishings inside each of the buildings.  One does feel transported back to the time when US wasn’t even a century year old yet and Native Americans were more numerous than European settlers.

The white buildings from left to right: the “Ice House”, the W.C. Ervin store, the South Pass Hotel and Restaurant, and the Exchange Saloon/Gaming Room.
This is the honeymoon suite, believe it or not it is twice the size of the other bedrooms in the hotel! Note how low to the ground the beds are.
The Exchange Saloon with card room in the back
Gentlemen place your bets!
I was expecting the dead man’s hand on the table, aces and eights!

The historic Carissa stamp mill mine just a half mile down the road tells of a time when gold was still being pulled from the surrounding hills.   The unproductive Wolverine Mine, within walking distance of the town, can still be entered replete with ore cart and rails. A sign of this once gold rich region can be found in the museum where a $5 gold piece found under one of the cabin floor restorations is displayed.

The ore cart rails invite you to walk into the defunct Wolverine Mine where you can enter some 20 feet and see an original ore cart and tools.
Gold! The thimble, watch and ring were cherished heirlooms of a local family that lived in the town. The $5 gold coin was found by archaeologists as they excavated one of the building floors.
An old wagon sits outside the Wolverine Mine as we see a view of the far side of the town. From left to right: this is where the schoolhouse was relocated after being flooded, it held classes until 1946, Esther Hobart Morris son’s newspaper cabin, a residential cabin and the blacksmith’s shop

This is the town where Esther Hobart Morris lived.  Esther was the very first woman Justice of the Peace in the world appointed in February 1870. Though a strong supporter of woman’s suffrage, she is wrongly linked to Wyoming’s first in the nation suffrage legislation granting women the right to vote in December of 1869, though she benefited from this by being able to submit her name for the position and getting selected by the governor, therefore being the first woman to hold public office!

Suzie standing in front of Esther Hobart Morris son’s restored cabin which housed a printing press where the South Pass News was printed. The original cabin burnt to the ground, but the printing press survived!
A sign of the times, this restored blacksmith’s shop shows the original coal fired forge and anvil for wagon repair, but the smith evolved with the times and ultimately made repairs to cars!
Across the creek from right to left is the jail/schoolhouse, billiards hall/saloon/brothel, and one of the resident’s cabins which at one time was said to be an isolation hospital during a disease outbreak, my how times haven’t changed!
The Miner’s Exchange Saloon now houses a billiards table and bar
Rumor has it that this was also once a bordello disguised as a millinery run by two “harsh” sisters

One curious discovery we made was at the butcher shop which had a freezer to store the meat in!  What?  Where did they get the ice from?  On our trip back later, we discovered on a road pull off “The Ice Slough”.   It seems Mormon travelers on the Oregon Trail and later other emigrants each discovered permafrost ice under a marshy area.  Digging down a few feet in the dirt, they would find and harvest the ice.  This was a welcome source for making cold drinks and preserving food along the way.  Yes, ice in the Wyoming “desert” in early summer!

Oddly the front of the jail was at one time used as a schoolroom. Still visible and precisely painted above the windows and door in this pink room is the cursive alphabet!

The rear of the jail is all business with four jail cells. With the wooden construction, the jails were actually cool inside, not hot, even though they had no windows. This is where the phrase “being thrown in the cooler” actually originated.

As you scroll through the pictures, read through the captions as there are some interesting historical tidbits embedded  in my remarks.  Enjoy!

Looking back at main street from across the creek you can see the Carissa Saloon and the Smith Sherlock Co. Store. In the foreground is the Exchange Saloon and Card Room.
The Carissa Saloon, named after the nearby richest gold mine.
I love the attention to detail on this restored kitchen. It looks like breakfast is about ready!
Root Cellars were built into the side of the hills to keep perishables cold. These old kegs are reminder that there once was a beer garden at the city near the billiards hall.
Actually outside of the South Pass City historical site is the old Masonic Lodge, the first one in Wyoming.

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